Guppy fish Care – GuppyFish Care
As with other aquarium fish, guppies have specific temperature preferences that you can readily It is also crucial to take the pH of water into consideration. Related Articles: pH, alkalinity, In praise of hard water; How hard, alkaline water 40 Nitrite: 0 Ammonia: ish Hardness: Moderate Temperature: about 76 at Fancy Guppies, like fancy varieties of most aquarium fish, are much less adaptable. . and I do somewhat understand the relationships between pH, KH and GH. The Guppy is one of the most well-known and popular aquarium fish for both waters, and of pH's, from , the most ideal pH for them is between and If you choose to keep both males and females, keep them at a ratio of . Maybe you can try dropping the temperature a bit says higher.
In other words, when breeders create Fancy Guppies, they seem to throw away some of the genes that made Guppies hardy in the first place. Now, there are differences in quality of Guppies just as there are differences in the quality of pedigree dogs. The Guppies you buy from a pet store were bred to a price, not a quality, and often fish farms use antibiotics to "support" their fish so that they can stock lots of them in breeding ponds without being too worried about healthcare.
By contrast, breeders at fish clubs will be taking more care, selecting the best fish, and looking after each group of fish carefully, as a labour of love.
None of this gets away from the fact that Fancy Strains are often very inbred, with father-daughter, mother-son crosses being very common, so even under the best of circumstances, Fancy Guppies are genetically "weak". But there is a difference between good quality fish and mass produced fish. Wild Guppies are astonishingly adaptable, and that's why they became popular in the first place. Fancy Guppies, like fancy varieties of most aquarium fish, are much less adaptable. To my eyes, such Guppies are lovely, resembling the wild-type fish, which are wonderfully variable.
The old name for Guppies, Millionsfish, referred to the fact that there were so many of them, and every one was different.
That it eats up Nitrates and Ammonia, looks good, reduces water hardness, sucks up CO2, puts in O2, increases water ph, and is easy to keep. How many if any of those things are true? Your Guppies will nibble at them directly, and also peck away at algae growing on the roots.
Yes, they absorb some nitrate and even ammonia at a rate depending on light intensity i. I strongly recommend them, but I would expect them to replace your standard protocols for water quality and water chemistry management. It's less demanding in coldwater tanks and ponds.
In tropical tanks, sometimes wastes away if the lighting is poor to moderate. Indian Fern and Amazon Frogbit are, in my experience, a bit more forgiving. Referring to the KH I use to use a phosphate buffer to control PH and it worked well but also caused hair algae, so I went to just baking soda, but if I add enough to raise the KH to the level you suggest then the PH raises to 8.
Discus on the way to go with the blue ram, Cory's and Pleco's. Silver dollars will go to the other tank. There's no real advantage. Let's look at why. First of all, pH is a mirage. Fish don't "feel" pH. They only feel the total dissolved solids, since that's the only aspect that impacts their biology specifically, osmoregulation.
Adjusting pH up or down without first figuring out the correct General Hardness and Carbonate Hardness is like painting your motor car black and saying that turns it into a London taxi cab. So, forget about pH, and forget about buffers.
Fish will adapt to a range of pH and hardness values, and silver dollars for example are fine in slightly alkaline, moderately hard water. The advantages to keeping them thus are two-fold. Firstly, water with appreciable levels of hardness especially carbonate hardness resist water chemistry changes.
Finally, all fish prosper best where the aquarist can do large, regular water changes. Most fish would sooner be kept at sub-optimal water chemistry values provided those values were constant as they would be with regular water changes. Keeping fish are "optimal" values if soft and acidic won't help if the pH changes between each water change, as would happen if the water changes were small and the aquarist had provided no reliable buffering capacity to the aquarium.
I mix rainwater with tap water to get soft, slightly acidic water when required and it works perfectly. The reason I say mix with tap water is its a cheap approach that combines the ease of large scale water changes with the buffering capacity present in many local tap water supplies. My tap water here has something like 20 degrees dH and a pH around 8. Another possibility is that the test kit is faulty, but I have already tried 2 different test kits and have the same readings on each.
Certainly, you should "practise" on disposable buckets of water to get the exact water chemistry you want before keeping any fish in it. Within reason, fish will adapt to a spectrum of pH and hardness values. In fact it worsened the problem temporarily. One thought might be a diatom bloom. This normally only happens in marine tanks, and the solution is a UV filter.
I'd still tend to opt for breaking down the tank, cleaning, and returning the fish to the tank once cleaned. See if the problem happens again. I call this the nuclear option -- a bit like instead of faffing about with a computer trying to figure out the problem, you just erase the hard drive and put everything back. In the long run, a time saver. I know this because I have a night vision camera that I watched with after dropping a wafer into the tank in total darkness, and within 5 minutes or so the silver dollars will slowly zero in on the wafers by smell or what ever sense they have, and eat them.
It sure made their eyes glow brightly. Their eyes are much more sensitive to visible light than ours, and some can also see UV to some degree. I have never fed them such so they may not recognize the smell as food and therefore leave it alone.
You can't overdose vegetables because they contain so little protein. So sticking half a head of lettuce in a fish tank won't cause anything like the ammonia pollution of a one extra pinch of flake. I often leave big chunks of vegetables in my tanks for days at a time. The softer they become, the more the fish like them. Because there's so little protein in 1 gramme of vegetable compared to 1 gramme of meat, Plecs need to forage more or less constantly, and will usually zoom right in on a meaty treat like a mussel given the chance.
A few Plecs, notably the genus Panaque, can actually extract proteins from digesting wood something very few animals can do. First, I would like to start off wishing everyone a very happy, healthy and prosperous New Year. Thank you for your ceaseless and selfless dedication to making this site what it is.
What Temperature Should an Aquarium Be for Guppies?
You all have helped me once in the past and I hope you will help again. My question involves water chemistry.
I have done quite a bit of reading, but I am still somewhat confused. In testing our tap water, we found that it is a bit unfriendly for our fishy family members: We were buying bottled water from the grocery store but that grew old fast because we have 4 freshwater tanks totaling g with a 5th tank 75g rainbowfish in the works.
I do understand about reconstituting the water. I understand it is better to aerate the water for 24 hrs before buffering, and I do somewhat understand the relationships between pH, KH and GH. In my first attempt to make up water, my parameters are as follows, pH 7.
The pH pretty much matches the pH in the tanks now, with 2 of the community tanks at 7. I am using 1 teaspoon of baking soda, 1tablespoon of Epsom Salts and 1tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons.
All have some range, tolerance to change I know that some fish like a softer water to breed in, but we are not really interested in breeding fish at this time. Also, is it more important to pay attention to the alkalinity for keeping the pH stable, or treat the KH and GH equally?
I would use either a good general buffering product made for aquarium use or make one up here. Salts combinations of metals and non-metals have other properties With the number of gallons total in your systems I would rig up a system to "batch treat" your make-up water I have Buff-It-Up which didn't do anythingStable 7. This has me totally confused I'm very new at this. Oh, my water is hard from the tap. I am sooooooooo confused!!!! Perhaps it would be beneficial to use the term "basic" rather than "alkaline" to alleviate confusion between the terms alkaline and alkalinity.
Okay, "alkalinity" is a measure of a sample's ability to resist changes in pH downward in the presence of an acid. By the very same token, "acidity" is a measure of a sample's ability to resist changes in pH upward in the presence of an alkali, or base.
In simple terms, it's "buffering capacity". Where, on either side of "neutral", a sample tests on the pH scale, at a given time, has no bearing whatsoever on its "acidity" or "alkalinity". This is borne out by what you've discovered, i.
Frankly, this isn't a stable condition since naturally occurring carbon dioxide in the air mixes with water to form carbonic acid. Additionally, there are other organic acid "dynamics" that take place in our aquariums that compound the problem. What this means, to you and others in this situation, is that your pH levels are in a precarious position.
Just what you didn't want to hear, right? Hence, you need to increase your alkalinity buffering capacity in order to resist a plummet from a slightly basic pH level 7. Here's where things get stinky, er, sticky.
It simply ain't easy to increase alkalinity without raising the pH levels. Sodium bicarbonate baking soda provides excellent buffering capabilities due to the "bicarbonate" element but, if not added very, very judiciously, can drive your pH up dangerously.
The products you mentioned above are, to greater or lesser degrees, of questionable efficacy. Honestly, I would look to small but frequent water changes rather than trying to chemically alter your water parameters.
In the time that you'll spend playing around with various "buffers" and "stabilizers" as well as the requisite parameter tests to ensure that you haven't screwed up somewhere along the line, you could have, easily, performed a simple water change. In the long run, you might find yourself acclimating your Goldfish to pH levels outside of the "ideal" but, many credible sources suggest that you're better off keeping your fish at your tap water parameters than to "artificially" rearrange them.
You'll make me blush. That falls into the "massive" range. Keep it to about half of that and you'll be "golden". Nothing like some good fish kisses.
What Temperature Should an Aquarium Be for Guppies? - Pets
I've decided to get rid of the gravel in both tanks. It's a real pain trying to feed them because the only ones who see the food coming are the Ryukins.
Won't be as much fun for them but, it'll be a whole lot easier on you! There's a complex thing behind pH involving the relative proportions of things that raise pH alkaline chemicals, such as bicarbonate salts and things that lower pH acidic chemicals, typically organics such as tannins. What softening water does is reduce the abundance of the alkaline chemicals, so that smaller amounts of the acid chemicals will lower the pH.
Am I heading down the right track? I'd want to see how the background acidification of the tank affected pH between water changes testing, say, ever days. Once I was confident that pH was stable, I'd then look to using either carefully controlled amount of peat granulate in the filter to increase acidity or else using a pH 7 or pH 6. I like the Sera Peat Granulate; it's concentrated, so you can start off with tablespoon or three in a media bag, pop it into the canister filter, and then see what happens with pH across the next few days, checking pH daily.
The water will turn brown of course, which may or may not be a good thing depending on your needs. Commercial pH buffers will "fix" the pH and keep water chemistry within a very safe range provided they are used correctly. They are more expensive than peat, but perhaps easier to use. If your aquarium is medium-hard to slightly soft in terms of hardness, it's already "optimal" in terms of fishkeeping.
So medium-hard water at pH 7. Any suggestions on ratios?
Don't get dazzled by the idea there's some "optimal" pH because there isn't; instead understand the goal, creating water similar to the wild, by reducing carbonate hardness and adding organic acids such as tannins. First of all, I've really enjoyed your site. I cleaned all the gravel and decor and the tank. I let the system sit for a week before adding fish.
FAQs on pH, Alkalinity, Acidity: Practical Science
I have only added a barb and a diamond tetra and a Cory catfish. I am familiar with "new tank syndrome" and thought I knew what to expect. Even before I moved the tank, I was having problems with the pH going down.
It was staying around 6. I have had this aquarium for over two years and have just started getting the pH drops within the last 6months. I thought that starting over might help but it has only been 3 weeks and the pH has dropped already from 7.
Ammonia levels are normal. It has been so long since I have had a "new" aquarium, I can't remember all. I knew to expect an increase in ammonia and nitrates, but don't remember pH going so low.
Am especially concerned because it was happening before I moved the aquarium. I don't think it is our tap water because I have a 10 gal and a 5 gal that are doing just fine. I don't see much of the Cory, but then I never have. These fish are all over 1. Should I just leave the pH alone and start with water changes? Should I go ahead and add more fish? Furthermore, our results show that daily variation in temperature and its interaction with light should be considered in future studies of guppy reproductive behaviour.
On a finer scale, circadian rhythms of behaviour, such as the daily patterns of predator—prey interactions Vidal et al. Temperature has direct effects for ectotherms at all levels of organization, as metabolic reaction rates are intrinsically linked to temperature.
Many fish species in thermally stratified habitats undertake daily vertical migrations in order to maximize bioenergetic efficiency. During the day, light intensity is typically the primary trigger to begin migration, whereas water temperature and hydrostatic pressure guides position during the night see Mehner, When the habitat does not offer enough spatial thermal heterogeneity, ectotherms can thermoregulate temporally by taking advantage of natural diurnal variability in temperature, and adjusting activity patterns over the course of the day.
In these cases, behaviours and biological functions, such as digestion and swimming performance, could be timed to coincide with the time of day when conditions are most favourable e. In tropical regions, water temperature is generally considered to have only limited daily and seasonal variability.
Accordingly, much of the research focus in tropical freshwaters has been concerned with the importance of daily cycles of light and predationwhereas the effect of temperature on patterns of fish activity has been little studied Reebs, ; however, the daily oscillation in water temperature may be greater than previously considered, and therefore could be an important driver of behaviour.How to Care for Fancy Guppy Fish. Poecilia reticulata Million Fish. How to set up a guppy tank.
In their natural range, variation in light and predation risk have resulted in adaptive selection in reproductive behaviour and life-history traits e. Light is essential for multiple activities, such as foraging and communication, and in particular for being able to see and be seen by potential mates Endler, ; Gamble et al.
This is especially important for male guppies who perform stereotyped sigmoid displays whilst exhibiting their colour patterns to attract females Houde, The daily variability of water temperatures within Trinidad is considered to be quite small e.
Kenny, ; Grether et al.